Shade Gardening

Type of shade, humidity, moisture, reflected heat and air movement all create variations in growing conditions. Most plants recommended for full sun, as well as many shade plants, will perform well in light shade. Those plants recommended for shade usually require shade only during the hottest part of the day.

IDENTIFY TYPE OF SHADE

Light Shade: Dappled patterns of equal sun and shade, or areas that receive only 5 to 6 hours of direct sun. All but a few sunny garden plants will do well here. Many shade plants will do well in light shade if protected from the hottest afternoon sun. Plant hardiness often improves in shaded and protected areas.

Medium Shade: Bright light, some direct sun, high cover of deciduous trees or part shade by structures. Use plants that will tolerate these conditions. A few "sun" plants will adjust and be useful here. All shade plants should thrive in this environment especially if moisture requirements are met.

Heavy Shade: Sun blocked by buildings, structures, evergreens or heavy canopy of trees, with only indirect or reflected light. It is difficult to grow a wide variety of plants in heavy shade. Choose only plants that will tolerate low light. In very good soil, groundcovers work well. Consider accent areas of stone, statuary, container gardens and perhaps an attractive bench.

Shade Created by Deciduous Trees: Plants growing beneath trees compete with tree root systems for water, light and nutrients. Supplement the needs of the smaller plants with water and nutrients.

PROPER PLANTING FOR SHADE

• Improve Soil Conditions: The heavy clay soil that predominates in this area is an excellent growing medium if enough organic matter is incorporated into it to allow air, water and nutrients to move freely through the soil. Add 1/3 soil conditioners to 2/3 existing soil. We recommend Superfines Soil Conditioner, Leaf Gro, or peat moss. Thoroughly work these soil additives into individual planting holes or into beds. Add a combination of these light materials to a depth of 4-6� to form beds under trees.
• Light: Trim lower tree branches to allow for increased light and movement of air. Selectively remove some of the trees if the canopy is too dense, leaving only the most desirable. On smaller trees, such as dogwood or Japanese maple, trimming up and thinning out the branches will reveal the structure of the tree and allow plants to thrive beneath them.
• Water: Plants often dry out from lack of water in shady areas because large trees use water rapidly, especially in periods of drought. Many small plants will not tolerate dry shade. Supplement by watering deeply. Frequent, light waterings do more damage than good, encouraging roots to grow toward the surface. Check soil moisture on new plantings frequently. Set out empty coffee cans when using sprinklers to measure water or check the depth with a trowel. Apply one or two inches of water to penetrate to a depth of 6-8�.
• Fertilization: Fertilize more often to compensate for the nutrients used by the trees. Many specialized fertilizers are available.

        �Merrifield Flowering Plant Food or Merrifield Tree and Shrub Food

        � Osmocote� is a slow release fertilizer that needs to be applied only once at the beginning of the         growing season (April-May)

        �Organic fertilizers such as Holly-tone� may be used in spring and late fall.

        �Liquids (i.e. Peters�) can be used as quick supplements if plants need it and is especially good with         annuals. Most plants (except lawns) are not fertilized during August and September to avoid         encouraging growth right before winter.

   

• Mulch: Maintain a 2" to 3" mulch. Mulch conserves moisture, helps prevent weeds, and breaks down into nutrients that improve the condition of the soil. Do not pile mulch around the crown or base of the plants. Shredded hardwood and bark chips are very good mulch materials.
• 6. Surface Roots: Established trees in can present a challenge in the form of surface roots, particularly Silver Maple. Prune roots once a year by cutting shovel deep between the tree and the plant approximately 2 or 3 feet from the center of the plant. Adjust the distance for smaller plants. If surface roots are a serious problem, create a rock and stone garden. Use accent pieces such as statuary, a bench, and groupings of container plants.

LIST OF SHADE OR PART SHADE PLANTS

ANNUALS	VINES	BULBS	TREES	GROUNDCOVERS
Abutilon	Euonymus, Winter Creeper	Begonia	Amelanchier	Aegopodium
Begonia	Honeysuckle	Caladium	Dogwood	Auga
Browallia	Hydrangea, Climbing	Canna	Elaeagnus	Asarum
Coleus	Ivy**	Cyclamen, Hardy	Fringetree**	Asperula**
Feverfew	Virginia Creeper**	Elephant Ears	Halesia	Epimedium
Foxglove (biennial)			Hemlock, Canadian	Euonymus
Fuschia			Holly	Hosta
Impatiens**			Katsura	Ivy
Lobelia			Magnolia, Deciduous	Lamium
Melampodium			Magnolia, Sweetbay	Liriope**